Ali Baba & His Madame Do Morocco

“Think of the world you carry within you” Rainer Maria Rilke

In India Mike was Maharaja, in Egypt & Jordan everyone thought he was a native and here in Morocco Mike is Ali Baba. How funny to be walking down the street and hear local after local call out “Ali Baba, come and visit my shop”, with a big smile and a thumbs up. Apparently Mike’s beard makes him look like Ali Baba, the Robin Hood of Morocco. What a great country to end our journey in. It’s a bit like India where you feel as though you’ve warped back in time. The spoken languages are Arabic and French and that’s pretty much it. Who would have thought that Morocco being so close to Spain would have such a big French influence?

Fes, not to be confused with Fez the Turkish hat, is what you imagine when you think of Morocco. A maze of narrow streets, we were told between nine and twelve thousand in the old city, key hole architecture, old Riads with beautiful courtyards, doors inside of doors, donkeys pulling carts, fresh meats including Camel hanging from hooks, chickens squawking, people praying and hand made goods being sold everywhere. Vegetarians beware; this is a meat eating country. Chicken or lamb Tajine, roasted chicken with frites, camel meat burgers, pigeon or fish Bastilla, and Moroccan tea so sweet it’s guaranteed to rot your teeth as you can’t help but notice from all the toothless smiles.

Marrakech is bigger and more modern. Each night Djemaa el-Fna , the big square in the Medina, becomes a fantastic fair with stalls serving traditional street food including Moroccan soup, lambs head, snails, all kinds of skewers and of course couscous. There are snake charmers with live Cobras, fortune tellers, healers and plenty of dancing & music. After a wide sampling we, of course, were interested in learning how to make all the delicious food we’d been eating so it was time for one more cooking class. First we did a trip to the market to choose the fruits, vegetables and chickens, still alive that is. There was no doubt they were free range and organic. Mike was fascinated by the whole “off with the head” thing while Carin diverted her eyes. Ten minutes later we had two freshly plucked, clean birds ready for the Tajine & Bastilla. It was back to the yellow and turquoise and courtyard in our own riad where we spent the next three hours slicing and dicing. Although the chef spoke very little English she managed to instruct us with ease. It was delicious!!!

No matter where we are the water and beach always call to us. The laid back and charming seaside port city of Essaouira was a beautiful end to this journey. The people of Morocco are incredibly warm and friendly and extremely proud of their country. This is displayed in their traditional crafts, including pottery, leather goods, carpets, wood carving and metal working passed on from father to son, generation to generation. They pride themselves on being tolerant and welcoming to all.

REFLECTIONS
It’s amazing how quickly ten months has passed since we hugged Hannah goodbye at DIA with a one way ticket to Bangkok and the rest yet to be determined. One thing we know for sure is how fragile life is and that there really is only today. Rachel’s love for travel and adventure was our inspiration and the ten months away was our time to heal. We know our lives will never go back to “normal”, but we are moving towards a new “normal” with peace, love, happiness and laughter. We felt Rachel’s presence everywhere, on the beaches in Bali, in the colors of India, with the animals of South Africa and mountains of Nepal. She painted the sky with the most beautiful sunrises & sunsets and was there by our side to guide us when we were lost. It will take time before we fully realize all that we have experienced but there are a few things we know to be true. Our world is amazing and there is beauty everywhere. It is in the mountains and at the beach. You can find loveliness in the sands of the desert, the clay of the outback and the scrub of the bush. Your eyes can see it in the rice terraces and rolling green hillsides. It doesn’t matter if it’s the colors of a giraffe, a flower in bloom or the night sky filled with stars. The mind quiets and the heart beats a little faster when you stand before the Taj Mahal, notice the faces carved into the temples of Angkor Wat, see the Buddhas glowing with sunlight at Borobudur and make the journey into the hidden valley of Petra. It is the people with their open hearts and big smiles that touched our souls, how they reached out to us, inviting us into their homes, offering a cup of tea or a place to spend the night. We feel blessed to have shared these experiences with some of our dear friends, An, Ed and Nicole, Sue, Dani and Kim, and with family, Lee, Marcia, Gerri and Mia. Our journey was made complete with Jess and Hannah’s presence. We hope that our stories and pictures elicited a smile, a laugh or even a tear. Thank you for taking the time to be part of our journey.

A final shoutout to our support team:
*Chuck and Chris for keeping the business in check and being so supportive
*The Teschners for taking excellent care of our cars and storing Hannah’s stuff
*Lee for all things technical including an I Pod, phone and portable speakers
* Marcia and Gerri for amazing travel expertise
* Sue for taking such good care of Hannah
*Hannah for getting yourself ready for semester abroad, no easy task, and taking such good care of us while we were with you in South Africa
And last, but certainly not least Jess for everything else and we mean everything, including Gus. You are amazing!

“If travel truly is in the journey and not the destination, if travel really is an attitude of awareness and openness to new things, then any moment can be considered travel” Rolf Potts

With love,
Small Travelers

The Bush

We can't bring you the smells and sounds but here are a few of the sights of our Safari, intoducing the stars of Addo Elephant Park and Kruger National Park.

Lekker South Africa

Touching down in Cape Town on April 14th, also known as Hannah’s birthday, was the start of our journey through the country of South Africa. We arrived a bit wobbly from the 17 hour flight but ready to help our baby girl turn 21, knowing she needed her parentals around to keep her in check.. NOT, as she celebrated this milestone. Reality is we brought the ice cream and then headed back to our hotel for a little recovery time and Hannah and her friends partied on, dancing the night away. Then it was time for a little hard core sightseeing. With Hannah as our guide, an excellent guide we must say. We drove into the city for a walking tour starting at Charley’s Bakery and then the District Six Museum, our real introduction to the tragedy of Apartheid includining the history of the pass laws and the beginning of total segregation forcing black families to move out of their homes and into the townships. Then a trip to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 26 years in prison and finished the day checking out the shops at the Waterfront. To lighten things up a bit we spent the next few days exploring the many beautiful beaches along the cape. Camps Bay where you’ll find the rich & famous , Boulders beach home to the African Penguin colony, Kalk Bay for the best fish & chips ever and *Mzoli’s a place we won’t soon forget.
*Hannah, wanting us to experience a real taste of SA, said Mizoli’s on a Sunday is a must but left out a few minor details like; Mzoli’s is located in Gugulethu township, not the safest neighborhood in Cape Town, she wasn’t exactly sure how to get there and that this is an all day party packed to the gills with people from the townships, mostly under 30. Here’s how it works, first you wait on line for 45 minutes to pick out your meats (chicken, chops & sausage) don’t forget the special sauce and a side of pap, take your bowl of raw food, wait on another line to hand over to the grillers and then head out to the back yard where the party is raging. Two plus hours later, you make your way back inside to pick up your food, fight your way back to the table with a bowl of perfectly barbecued meats and enjoy the feast, every finger licking drop, eating with your hands and without napkins while listening to great music and drinking beer. We loved it. The food was fantastic and the people were great.
With Hannah now of legal drinking age we thought a weekend trip to the wine country was in order. The vineyards of Franschoek & Stellenbosch are home to some of South Africa’s finest wineries and only a 45 minute drive from Cape Town. The towns are charming and the countryside beautiful. We spent Saturday visiting a winery known for its sparkling wines where the proprietor was delighted to give us a cellar tour, sabrage (slice open a bottle of bubbly with a sabre, quite the trick) and then partake in six different tastings, eat a delicious lunch at a small vineyard just outside of town and then watch a chocolate making demonstration at a little chocolate shop. Hannah loved the wine tastings, Mike thoroughly enjoyed the lunch and Carin's fav wasof course the CHOCOLATE!
You can’t fully understand S. Africa without seeing a township. Unfortunately the majority of white South Africans have never visited one, but Hannah highly recommended doing so after spending a weekend in a township with a family. We met Siviwe our 27 year old guide who took us into the Langa Township. We spent two hours walking and talking, visited a high school, traditional healer, shebeen (home brew) and ended at the Guga S’Thebe Arts and cultural center. We were so touched we returned the next day with Hannah to watch the Happy Feet dance troupe perform traditional gum boots dancing. Siviwe volunteers his time teaching this lost art to children six to fourteen years old, giving local kids an alternative to wandering the streets. Definitely one of our highlights.
A few of the other things we managed to fit in worth mentioning were the scenic Garden tour up the coast, Addo Elephant park and a hike up Lions Head to prove to Hannah we really could do some serious hiking after all that bragging about Nepal. It turned out Mike managed to slip on the rocks and Carin turned Hannah’s 35 minute record into an hour and fifteen which Hannah found quite hilarious.
South Africa is a total contradiction. There is so much natural beauty, Cape Town’s Table Mountain, endless beaches, rugged coastlines, pine forests and the amazing bush. There’s such a strong sense of culture, art, dance and music. The food is delicious and the people are warm and kind. Yet, this beautiful landscape is still marred by Apartheid. The majority of the population, Blacks, Colored and Asians live in shacks with outhouses and no running water. This is a country that has the largest gap between rich and poor, twenty one percent unemployment resulting in a high crime rate and one of the highest HIV/Aids numbers in the world.

Like the rest of the world S. Africa has its challenges but we found it to be a fantastic country, buzzing with excitement about the up and coming World Cup. Sorry we won’t be around to enjoy it! Lastly we would like to say our visit to this country was even more special because we got to spend time with Hannah.

One Big shoutout to Jackie & Mark for an amazing dinner on the Waterfront and for thinking of Hannah while visiting Cape Town. We saw the Big Five but no Cheetah.

In šāʾ Allāh

Meeting MGM as we like to call them otherwise known as Marcia, Gerri and Mia in Egypt was just what the doctor ordered. Marcia had prepared the most amazing itinerary with the perfect mix of sightseeing and adventure including a few nights in luxury accommodations, what a treat. Gerri brought with her the essentials, more hair product for Carin, books and clothes, a few sweet treats, and a Woody Allen straight from the Carnegie Deli for Mike. Mia brought her pink swim goggles, plenty of hugs and kisses, tons of fun, and her amazing traveling spirit. The best part was that we got to spend 15 days with three of our most favorite people. Staying with tradition we like to give our guest travelers the option of sharing their experience, Here's what Marcia, Gerri and Mia had to say;

Gerri -

What comes to my mind most about Egypt & Jordan:
How easy and wonderful it was to travel with Carin & mike. Now, this wasn't an easy trip and there could have been many opportunities for crankiness....try to imagine in just over 2 weeks doing the following:
*traveling on planes not only in Egypt but going to another country (Jordan), more than a few 3 hour van rides in the middle of the desert, taxi rides that made NYC look tame, camels, donkeys, horses, a jeep ride that actually felt like a camel, horse & buggy rides, an over night train where Marcia was petrified and thought her life was over while Carin snored throughout the entire night, snorkeling in the (rough) Red Sea and seeing some of the "BEST" fish of Mikes life, a 3 day cruise, ferries, falukas (Egyptian sailboats)...we were exhausted!
*in addition to these modes of transportation we: listened to one too many tour guides, negotiated with the locals which was no easy task & actually got into one too many arguments over 10 cents, saw more temples & tombs than all of Asia combined, got up frequently at 4, 5 & 6 in the morning because they wanted you to see a sight before sunrise and Carin was ALWAYS on time, dragged Mike to one too many souks, ate more hummus & baba than Mike & Mia would care to remember...while listening to Carin, Marcia and myself moan with delight as we asked for more (we began to look like chickpeas and all of us would agree if we don't eat any of the middle eastern dips for about a year we'll be ok)
Marcia and I have been rating our trips (1 to 10, 10 being the highest) for many years. Its not always so easy to do when you have such diversity in a country and Egypt was one of these countries. We've included Mia in our rating system and this is Mia's version:

*Mia gave the food a 4 (I think she being generous since her least favorite food is hummus, yogurt & eggplant)
*Seeing the Pyramids an 11!!!!
*Traveling with Aunt Carin & Uncle Mike an 12!!!!
We tried to explain that the rating system can't go higher than a 10 but she insisted on the 11 & 12 and quite frankly we couldn't disagree.
Our trip was filled with adventure...and while this type of trip wasn't completely different to many of the journeys Marcia and I have had traveling around the globe, what was different was traveling with another family. Marcia and I have never been good traveling with groups & tours. We have always been independent travelers that relish our trips and have always traveled so well together that we've felt too selfish in the past to include others. Traveling with people can be complicated....and this type of trip warrants complication. Not many could keep up with us and what was sooooooooooooo wonderful was how Carin & Mike wanted to do everything (except for the hot air balloon ride!)
What we will remember most is how awesome it was to travel with them. It was such an added bonus to our trip and for Mia. Being in NY, Mia doesn't get to see her Aunt & Uncle very often and when she does there is always family around and lots of other people. This was 2 1/2 weeks of just Carin & Mike and Mia fell in love with them and ended up having a major crush on her Uncle Mike....we all know what a "kid" he can be and Mike was always up for splashing in a pool. He even learned to apologize! When he would "rough house" a bit too hard Mia would tell him "Uncle Mike, if you don't learn to say you're sorry you're not going to have many friends..." Mia connected to her Aunt & Uncle in a way that will change her life. Get ready Carin & Mike because she is planning her visit in Boulder and yesterday asked if she could bring her roller skates when she comes!
We ended our trip in Jordan saying goodbye with tears & hugs we didn't want to part...and we were jealous that they were continuing without us!
Our trip was AWESOME!!!

Marcia -

Most cultures have their heyday, their golden years. Britain had The Empire when the sun never set. Italy had the renaissance where they created an amazing body of art and literature. America had the 20th century during which the invention of the toaster-oven helped catapult us to world dominance.
Egypt is no different. Their civilization peaked over 4500 years ago when the pyramids were built. It is been downhill since then. Even though we traveled through Egypt thousands of years past the country's prime, this didn't detract from the quality of our trip one bit. Gerri, Mia and I just returned from 2 and 1/2 amazing weeks with Carin and Mike touring the Nile from top to bottom and then jetting over to the Rose City of Petra, Jordan.
We can't deny that when we first meet up with Carin and Mike in Cairo they were a little bit... how should we say?...tired. They had just finished up two grueling months in the most unforgiving of destinations, India, followed by a trek in the Himalayan Mountains of Nepal. If you question the challenge of the former destination, rent Slumdog Millionaire. If you question the physical demands of the latter, read "Into Thin Air." You'll begin to understand.
Thankfully, we came armed with the sustenance required to rejuvenate them both. For Mike, we brought a chilled "Woody Allen"--a 2 lb. sandwich from Carnegie Deli containing corned beef AND pastrami on rye with that kind of deli mustard that you can only get in NY. For Carin, it was the largest container of Lanza Leave-In Hair Conditioner permitted by international airline regulations. Both reveled in their gifts and immediately got a spring back in their step.
As expected our travels were diverse, fulfilling, and a ton of fun. We managed to squeeze in seeing the wonders of the world between meals. Some of the highlights included:
-camel riding at the pyramids. Of course, our guide tried to lead our caravan across the parking lot (the shortest distance) as opposed to across the dessert behind the pyramids (the scenic route) until we lodged a formal complaint with the camel dispatcher.
-the view from our hotel in Giza--the framed pyramids under a full moon. They were so close you could touch them from the balcony
-horseback riding in the dessert behind the pyramids. Our proprietor was a swarmy stable owner named Nasser who spent the entire ride trying to coerce Mia into joining him on HIS horse. Not for unsavory purposes, but rather so that he could charge us for a 3rd horse.
-Watching Mike give Mia diving lessons in every pool along the Nile. (she now knows how to dive)
-being stuck for 2 hours in "Polyester Alley" in Cario, with the locals, with no side streets for us to escape
-watching Mia get a henna on her hands at the infamous Fishaway cafe in the 1000- year old souk, Khan El Khalili
-learning that every restaurant in the country of Egypt was NOT closed on March 28th for a national holiday. The same day, that ALL tourist souvenir shops conveniently remained open for business
-Negotiating for EVERYTHING from bottled water to hookahs to table clothes ("cotton egyptian") to hibiscus tea to rides in unmetered taxis to strangers wanting "baksheesh" on the street for allowing us to take their photo (Carin refused)
-seeing the 3500 year old hair and fingernails on the mummy of Ramses II (aka-Yul Brenner) in the Egyptian Museum and then seeing his masterpieces at Abu Simbel and Karnak Temple
-our 4 day/3 night Nile cruise. We opted for the less expensive cabins which were actually BELOW the water line (a cabin that Judy and Joe would never tolerate)
-Carin's love of jewelry on the felucca leading to an impromptu jewelry show that rivaled The National Jewelry Show at the Javitz Center
-Snorkeling in the infamous Blue Hole in the Red Sea. Once we walked past the tombstones of divers who "didn't make it", it was actually a mind-blower.
-Petra at Night...and during the day
-Being with Mike when he saw "the best fish ever" during our final snorkel in Dahab. Yes, Carin chose to sleep in that morning.
But nothing beat, simply traveling with Carin and Mike. It was 2 and 1/2 weeks of quality time spent together that we will never forget, and always cherish. Thank you both for an amazing trip. We love you.

Shoutouts:

-MGM you are AWESOME! Can't wait till our next adventure.

- Brit, Sorry sweetie but we're just going to miss you in Morocco by a week. Let us know where to go. See you at Mike's Cantina.

- Alexa, So glad you're enjoying our blog we were definitely inspired by your travels.

- Lauren, Definitely stop by when you're in town this summer. we always love to see you.

- Jess, your the greatesttttt!

- Hannah, Our amazing little tour guide. We now have a new day to add to our top ten.

-To All, Happy Spring and see you soon. In šāʾ Allāh

note: (In šāʾ Allāh - is a word commonly used which means God willing in Arabic.)

Namaste

Namaste, " I honor the spirit in you which is also in me", a beautiful greeting that introduced us to the people and glorious mountains of Nepal. We spent 15 days in this beautiful country. Two days preparing, eight days trekking and 5 days recovering. After climbing Uluru, tramping the Abel Tasaman & Queen Charlotte and hiking the hillsides of Sap pa we really thought we were ready for the Himalayas. Boy were we mistaken. Even with a porter carrying the brunt of the load, in flip flops, we still were huffing and puffing after three hours straight up hill and that was just the beginning of day one. Each day there after was pretty much the same until the last day when we started our decent, 3200 steps down in just the first hour. There were rewards, sunrise at the top of Pune Hill (killer 5:00AM climb) with a magnificent, panoramic view of the Annapurna Range including Machhapuchhare, known as Fishtail and the Dhaulagiri, peaks towering over 24,000 ft., beautiful rhododendron forests of red and pinks and tea houses cooking up delicious Tibetan bread smothered in honey. Our stay in Kathmandu was short but a great place to recuperate, eat a little western food and visit Bhaktpur a UNESCO World Heritage site, the most well perserved medieval city which turned out to be an unexpected delight anda great way to end our adventure in Nepal. So we say to all of you NAMASTE!

This is India

Our journey through India continued a bit auspiciously as we arrived at the train station in Cochin to find out that the overnight sleeper train we had booked left for Goa the day before. Trains in India are the main source of transportation used by millions of people each day and have to be booked pretty far in advance. Luckily we found a supervisor with enough English and a can do attitude to help us secure 2 new tickets on another train leaving that evening. Of course the first tickets were non refundable and now we were in 3rd class, 6 people to a birth. That means 14 hrs, 3 bunks high on each side and not enough room to sit up. That’s when we met one of our bunk mates Nitin, a very nice young man from India on his way home to Delhi. We chatted it up for several hours in the early morning before the train finally arrived in Goa, and as travelers often do exchanged info and said goodbyes. Three or four days later we were surprised to receive a text message from our train buddy, offering so graciously to be our host when we arrived in Delhi. We thanked him and explained that we already had hotel arrangements and a driver scheduled to meet us at the airport. Nitin insisted that we stay the night in Delhi with he and his family (mother, father and younger sister), have a traditional home cooked meal and get a good night’s rest. The offer was too hard to resist so we changed our plans and were greeted at the airport by Nitin and his dad. We had the most wonderful evening, eating, laughing and talking about India and our travels. The next morning our driver Deepak, who we would be spending the next fifteen days with picked us up and our magical journey through the state of Rajasthan began. Each day started with “Good morning Carin ji, how are you, are you ok?” (Ji pronounced like the letter G is added to the end of a name to show respect .) Every time we were amazed, bewildered or sometimes disgusted by what we were seeing, smelling or tasting Deepak would say, “this is India”, when we narrowly avoided head on collisions which was often the case he would say, “don’t worry this is my job”, when we arrived at our destination and before leaving us to explore on our own he would say, “this is India use your mind”, and when we found a hotel in the guide book and asked if he had heard of it he would say, “very nice, cheap and the best, you decide.” Needless to say we really liked Deepak. Rajasthan has kingdoms, palaces perched on hill tops protected by incredible forts, royal families, Maharajahs, mosques and temples. You feel as though you’ve been dropped into an elaborate movie set and this couldn't be real.... people using camels and water buffalo for transportation, goats crossing the “highway” and we use that term loosely, followed by a goat herder dressed in a traditional longyi, men with colorful turbans, women in beautiful saris, the “Holy” cows wandering around the streets, eating everything, except grass, and leaving patties all over, 400 year old Haveli’s with the most elaborate facades, entire cities painted blue, pink and yellow with narrow winding streets bordered on both sides by endless shops and stands and roof top restaurants with incredible views that come alive at night when the sun begins to set. Traveling through the state of Rajasthan is like being in a fairy tale.

After saying good bye to Deepak Delhi became our hub for the next few days. We thought we would relax, take care of a few logistical things and see a few of the sights, Red Fort, Mosque and Presidents house before heading north to Rishikesh. Wow were we wrong. Delhi is a major city in the midst of a massive renovation for the 2010 Commonwealth games and under very tight security. The traffic under normal conditions is insane, but imagine now with a new subway line being added, it’s absolutely mind boggling. So we spent what seemed like the brunt of our time entangled in endless lines at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, travel agency and Train Station. Delhi under the best of circumstances can be quite challenging, but as always we did find time to relax, enjoy the shopping (Fabindia Carin’s new fav) and some delicious delectables.

Rishikish a destinations for Hindus and spiritual seekers, became very popular for tourists in the late 70’s after the Beatles spent some time in one of the Ashrams. Besides the Unique Lives and Experience ladies does anyone know the story behind the Beatles song "Dear Prudence"? It's a small city with the Ganges river running through where you can revitalize your soul with yoga and meditation and even a little white water rafting. We were fortunate to be in town for the Holi festival which takes place all over India. Needless to say it was quite an experience.

For Hindus Varanasi is the holiest city on earth and our last stop in India. This is a city where the most private matters are publicly displayed, were many come to die so that they can be cremated on the Ganges, stopping the cycle of reincarnation. It is a place that will remain etched in our memory.

This is India where;
- ‘No rules is the rule’ Deepak, driver extraordinaire
- Shah Jahan built one of the worlds most beautiful buildings for his 2nd wife who died giving birth to their 14th child, the Taj Mahal, a monument to love

- one person stops to help and seconds later there’s a crowd, listening, head bobbing and offering a little advice
- “ladies” and “gents” have separate ticket counters

- the whole family including babies and grandparents go to the theater to watch late night Bollywood movies eat samosas, talk, laugh and sing along to all the songs
- taxi and rickshaw driver will never admit that they just don’t know

- you can stand on the roof of a building admiring the view and have a man drinking tea come up and tell you about your beautiful Aura

- on any given night you will fall asleep to the sounds of chanting, horns blowing, motor scooters zooming by and dogs barking

- littering, spitting and public urination are common place
- you will be invited into someones home or shop to have a cup of masala chai tea
- not only does a sweet or salty Lassi taste great but also helps you to fall asleep

- everthing is a negotiation
- very small children beg for money and food

- when you least excpect it and really need it someone gives you a big hug
- groups of girls and women love to have their pictures taken
- walking or crossing the streets is always a challenge due to the cows, elephants, goats, pigs, monkeys, camels, dogs cars, buses, motorcycles, bicycles, trucks, carts, and PEOPLE

-no doesn't mean no it just means try harder

-1.2 Billion celebrate Holi by throwing paint powder all over each other

- on the Ganges cremations, bathing, washing clothes and religious ceremonies are all happening at the same time

- people look at what they do have and not what they don't

- the food is incredible!!!

This is India where religious belief is a daily celebration of faith and commitment.

We are throughly exhausted by our six facinating weeks in India, a country unlike any other.

Shoutouts...

-to the Anand family, our amazing hosts in Delhi. Thank you

-Hannah, your adventures in Capetown sound fantastic

-Jess, keep on juggling-job, school, dogs, finances both your and ours, friends and Rich. Did we forget anything?

-Jan, we continue to love hearing from you on the blog

-MGM see you in Egypt

- Mom and Joe, miss you a ton!

- Lee we know exactly what you were talking about

- to the rest of our faithful followers we miss you all very much

South India

Carin's brother Lee, our other travel advisor, who spent 6 weeks in India, was encouraging us to start in the south and work our way north. His last bits of advice before we parted ways in Thailand were, (1) don’t wear open toed shoes because of the cow...(2) don’t brush your teeth with the water, you will be sick for weeks (3) the south can get really hot so it's a good place to start and finished with how much he loved the people and food and wished he was going back with us. So off we went to Kerala, in the southern part of India. There are a few things you immediately notice upon arrival, how beautiful the women are in their colorful saris, how little English they speak and how blazing hot it is. Fort Cochin, an extremely cute little sea port town, would be our base for the next week as we explored the backwaters of Alleppy, and the spice gardens & tea plantations of Munnar. Four hundred years ago in this area the spice trade drew Portuguese, Dutch and Arab sailors, the Chinese with their gigantic fishing nets, still used today and Jewish refugees who fled after the destruction of the second temple. Can you imagine Hindus, Christians, Muslims and Jews all living together in peace. Today the population is mostly Indian Christians and Hindus
We boarded the local bus for the hour and a half trip to Alleppey where most of the backwater house boat trips begin. After arriving safely, which was a miracle in itself, we began the search for our vessel. With the aid of Ashuk and his never ending inventory of house boats we found the perfect match. Mind you these boats come with a captain, first mate and a chef. That’s a three to two ratio and we departed feeling very attended to. The day was beautiful. We stopped along the way and bought some incredible prawns which would be cooked for dinner and enjoyed watching life along the river. After docking that evening the captain informed us that his home and village were just a short distance down along the bank and invited us to meet his family. We walked along the river edge until we arrived at his very small, cement house. We were ushered in by his absolutely adorable four and two year old daughters. We met his lovely and very young wife through an arranged marriage and his mom who we think lived nearby and not with them. He proudly showed us the two bedrooms, the little kitchen and the yard filled with chickens. We also saw their small rice field behind the house. We wondered what happened during the monsoons with the house so close to the river’s edge and he laughed and with many hand gestures shared that the whole place fills with water when the rains come. Next thing we knew, we were in the sitting room, given the only two chairs in the house and were served steaming cups of sweet tea and a plate of yummy fried rice munchies. The girls entertained us with their toys, a little plastic truck and a snowman light. Actual conversation was limited as they all spoke Malayalam (the official language of Kerala) although the captain could speak a little English. Seeing their pictures on the camera was a highlight for the girls, especially the younger one who was a little bit shy at first. As we walked back to the house boat mom and Grandma were having a great time giving the girls their evening bath in the river. Typical of the people we are meeting all over Asia, their nest’s may be small, possessions very few, but their hearts are open.
Rumor had it that we would be able to beat the heat by heading up to the tea plantations in the hills of Munnar. Hiring a driver seemed like the way to go after our bus experience so off we went for a five hour, 140 km (84 miles) adventure. How can it possibly take 5 hours to go 84 miles? That’s India! It wasn’t quite as cool as we had hoped but it sure was beautiful seeing tea being grown all along the hills and ridges, It reminded us a little of the rice terraces in Indonesia and Vietnam and the wine country in New Zealand. Our driver/guide took us to a spice garden where we saw over forty varieties of plants, flowers. herbs and spices. Our favorite part of the day was during a hike on one of the private tea plantations to see a waterfall. The ladies called “pluckers” who harvest the tea were just finishing their morning work and were about to break for lunch. Again the camera was a great ice breaker. Between asking if we could take their picture, finding out who wanted their picture taken and showing them the pictures of themselves, we spent a half hour laughing it up with some very friendly, hard working women. There is no doubt that the best part of traveling is the opportunity to spend time with local people.
Last stop Goa, the smallest state in India, but a much loved beach destinations by Indians and foreigners alike. We stayed in a hut with an outdoor bathroom, cold water shower and resident bat, which came home each evening around nine. Carin knew we had left our routines behind when four days in Mike first realized the room didn’t have a TV. The beach was especially great on Sunday when most of people don’t work and entire families come out to stroll along the beach and enjoy the water. Of course as always we were able to locate a few good restaurants along the way.

It is with great sadness that we remember our dear friend Bob Matthews. Before leaving on our journey we had dinner with Bob and Cindy and can’t forget how excited and encouraging they both were. We sat around drinking Bob’s famous Margaritas and laughed as Bob told stories about his wild backpacking days. We will miss so many things about Bob but most of all his love for his family, sense of adventure and incredible kindness.

Campuchia

Imagine a country that as short as 30 years ago had a population of approximately 7 million, endured a civil war and then was systematically decimated by their own government, Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. Over 2 million innocent people were tortured and killed during this unthinkable genocide which lasted for just over 4 years. Today Cambodia is a beautiful, peaceful, quiet country with the most loving, warm, friendly people. Our exploration started in the capitol city with a Small party of seven consisting of Carin's baby brother Lee, Hannah, Sue & Dani and Kim (Lee's friend from NY). Phenom Penh like other Asian cities is a bustling place located along the Mekong Delta. During the Khmer Rouge the city was evacuated, the people told to take what they could carry and go to the country side, where they would be safe from the Americans who were planning to bomb Phenom Penh (not true). Schools were then turned into prisons of torture (SS1). The people, mostly the educated including teachers, doctors and old government officials were rounded up in the country side, interrogated and either killed right on the spot or sent back to places like the SS1 prison in Phenom Penh where they were tortured and sent to the Killing Fields, approximately 18 kilometers from the city. The killings took place all over the country but Phenom Penh's S-21was known for some of the worst atrocities on man kind. The record keeping was very similar to Hitler and the Holocaust. This really hit home when we toured the S-21 prison and saw all the before and after pictures they recovered and read the stories of the many people who perished. Towards the end of our tour Mike asked the young Cambodian women guiding us what she remembered, and we all were very saddened to hear that at 13 years old she was witness to her father and brother being killed by the Khmer. We then went to the Killing Fields where mass graves were found and more than 200,000 people were killed and buried. Today in remembrance of all the innocent people that were murdered there stands a Buddhist stupa housing the uncovered remains (bones) behind a giant pane of glass for all to pay their respects and remember. We came full circle as we dined at the wonderful restaurant Friends and witnessed the love and goodness in people. This place in an institution in PP. Their mission is to take very poor children off the street, educate them( they have their own school with boarding if necessary) and provide job training in their restaurants. They learn all aspects of work in the industry including cooking, serving and even English. They also run a store with many great items the kids make plus their own cookbooks and the proceeds go back into the school. The young people were amazing and the food absolutely delicious!
The temples of Angkor are not on the old Seven Wonders of the World list. They are also not one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. We are wondering why. Back in the 9th century Angkor was the heart of the Khmer empire for aproximately 300 years before being abandoned. At its peak Angkor had a population of one million. From our observations you would need at least that many workers to build these massive Hindu temples which today are Buddhist. There was Angkor Thom with huge faces carved into the rocks, Ta Prohm sometimes called the “Tomb Raider” temple not only where the movie was filmed but also where the jungle had engulfed the walls of the ruins which made for a very surreal experience, Banteay Srei which means citadel of women was the smallest of the temples we visited, but had the most intricate, beautiful carvings that they believed could only be done by the delicate hand of a women and last but not least Angkor Wat the largest of them all. This one required a 4:45AM wake up call to see the sunrise over the temple and started off with quite a bang when we stepped out of our hotel and realized Lee had mistakenly booked a third Tuk Tuk, we only needed two. After 10 minutes of watching the drivers try to straighten this mess out Lee stepped in and said he would pay the extra driver for the inconvenience, when we got back , and assured the driver not to worry, “I’m a man of my word”, which we all found very funny because just the day before Lee had scheduled the same driver but we ended up taking a van instead. Eventually we made it to the temple with a hundred of our closest friends and just in time to be escorted to our free plastic seat in the second row where we were offered coffee or Tea for 1 dollar. After drinking the lukewarm cup of instant Nescafe, Lee & Kim realized there was a real opportunity here to set up a Cappuccino & Espresso stand and make a small fortune. The sunrise really wasn’t as magnificent as we had hoped but all the early morning hoopla made it quite fun. After visiting Angkor Wat we went back to the hotel for a little R&R, before heading out to explore a floating village. Our captain looked to be 14 and his first mate 12 but they assured us we were in good hands. We spent the next hour or so cruising the river, exchanging hello’s, waves and smiles with all the villagers we saw along the way. It turned out to be a special treat on our last day in Cambodia.
Hannah left for Cape Town and we were now a Small party of four heading to the beaches of Ko Phi Phi & Railay for one last hurrah, before it was time for Kim & Lee to head back to the Big Apple. We rented a house on Railay, had a chef cook us a fantastic meal, snorkeled at Mosquito Island, Jumped off a cliff and sipped some wine thanks to Kim as we watched the sun set on the beach.
This time of the year is always a bit tough for us but we were thankful to be on a beach, one of Rachel’s favorite places, doing “cartwheels in the sand “, eating Thai food which she loved so much because of its sweetness and watching the oranges and pinks paint the sky each evening. The big, beautiful smiles and open hearts of the people of Southeast Asia will always remind us of our Sunshine as we continue this journey.
Shoutouts,
- To all our guest travelers Now that your seasoned how about a reunion in Morocco?
- Bonjour Brittney have fun in France and remember the three B’s
- Liz & Rick This batch of pictures is safe and sound thanks to you.
- Ivi Where are you?
- Hedy Surfs up in Costa Rica!
- Hannah Our Drama Queen no longer. Have fun in Cape Town and you remember the three B’s too.
- Jess & Rich Thanks for taking such good care of little Gus

SMALL PARTY OF NINE

After five months of travel, seven countries and a lot of anticipation the gang arrived in Bangkok ready "to let the wild rumpus begin," And so it did. The cold of Colorado was soon a distant memory the temperature in Bangkok, a steamy 90 with 95% humidity. With only a short time, the Grand Palace and several Wats (Buddhist temples) to conquer we forged ahead. Three days and some pretty yummy street food later we left the hustle and bustle of the big city and boarded our flight to explore northern Thailand and the charming city of Chiang Mai before hitting the beach. With plenty on the agenda, a trip to the Elephant rescue camp, Thai cooking class, trekking to the hill tribes and of course as many Thai massages as possible, there was no time to waste. We thought it would be fun to let our guest bloggers share some of the highlights.

- When in Chiang Mai going to an elephant camp is a definite must… so with only a moments hesitation after signing a liability waiver (which is practically unheard of in Thailand) we rode an opened back bus up into the soy bean fields with our guide “Bowie, David Bowie” to spend the day with the elephants. The view was gorgeous and the elephants magnificent. The elephants at the camp were rescued from Burma where they were abused. The camp was home to about 6 grown elephants and one adorable baby elephant named James Bond, much to the delight of the camp guides. Our day with the elephants started with each member of our large group getting the chance to climb aboard the back of one lucky member of the elephant clan. There are 3 ways to mount an elephant: (1) you can hoist yourself up by standing on the animals raised foot and then swing your leg over its back cowboy style (more easily said than done) (2) stand facing the front of the elephant grab a hold of the elephants large ears, the elephant will raise its trunk and you can scramble up the trunk onto the elephants back or (3) if you’re feeling particularly tenacious you can take a leap standing face to face with the elephant and hope to hurdle the elephants large head and land in a straddle position on its back. Option 3 offers the best chance for observer entertainment should the mount go wrong. After spending the morning taking turns getting on and off the elephant we had a lovely little lunch and then on we went to bathe the elephants in the river. The aforementioned liability form started to make sense once we all got into the water, elephants, camp participants and mahouts alike. The washing of the elephants turned out to be a sorry excuse for the guides to start a giant water fight, which Mike couldn't have been more excited about. Once the battle had ended, we all once again mounted our giant new friend. As usual, Mike and Carin were on the rouge elephant. Mike of course tried to wrangle his elephant back into submission while everyone else got back on their ride until it was only Carin left standing in the water with the elephants. In a state of mild panic Carin thought the guides were asking her to mount the elephant standing in front of her, unable to see that Mike had finally got his elephant under control and was laying in the water waiting, so in a slightly shrill voice, Carin eyed up the giant in front of her and asked the guide “how do you want me to get up there? It’s standing!!”. Eventually Carin found her way and we spent the rest of the afternoon letting the elephants graze and get a fabulous mud bath. The day was undeniably one of the most memorable experiences any of us will ever have. Jess

- After many eventful adventures in Chiang Mai the nine of us decided to take it easy by enrolling in a Thai Cooking class. Around three in the afternoon we all boarded the back of the truck and headed off to the farmlands slightly outside of the city. After many minutes on a bumpy dirt road we arrived at the cutest cooking school I have ever seen. We were treated to a brief tour of the organic garden where we smelled, tasted and learned about all the different herbs used in Thai cooking. Next we each settled into our individual cooking stations, equipped with a wok, single burner, pestle & mortar, and the necessary ingredients. The chef gave a brief demonstration and we began to cook our four courses, curry paste, red or green curry, chicken with Thai basil, tom yom soup, and what else… Pad Thai. Things seem to be going nicely until about half way into the green curry. Maybe it was the cold I caught from dad or it could have been the not so fresh chicken satay I scarfed down earlier from one of the many street vendors, whatever the cause I was soon white faced, covered in a cold sweat and I knew I was going down. My face was either going straight into my green curry or I would have to take a seat outside the cooking class I had waited to long to do. I opted for the seat outside and unfortunately will never know exactly how make curry. Luckily I have 7 others who do know how to make a successful green curry, plus a fabulous red curry made by the also fabulous Mike Small. After many cups of water and a few much needed and tender hugs from mom I rejoined the class and we finished making our big feast. My favorite part came right after the cooking, THE EATING! As we engulfed our meal we came to the conclusion that the best food in Thailand came right from our own cooking. So if anyone is ever craving“ fabulous Thailand food”, give anyone of the crew a call because we are more than willing to show off our
skills. Hannah

- From the enchanting beaches of Ko Pi Pi, to the fascinating markets and fish massages of Bangkok, to the scooters & magical New Year's Eve celebration of Chiang Mai. A once-in-a-lifetime incredible 2 weeks in Thailand. Best of all, we were with our dearest friends.
Eddysan "Massage King" B.

- The whole trip to Thailand was amazing, with the best part being that we got to see the famous "bigworld-smalltravelers" in person. What a treat! It was also great spending time with Jess, Hannah, Sue and Dani. My favorite day was the visit to the elephant rescue camp where we were employed for the day(even though we paid them). First we were told to strip down and put on our work camp uniforms which consisted of a one size fits all pair of denim pants (they were as wide as they were long and came with a belt already attached--efficiency at its best), and a matching denim top. I cringed as I heard Marcia's voice in my head--"double-denim,that's a glamour no-no!). Not to worry though, the little bamboo hats created a nice offset attracting one's eyes upward distracting from the obvious fashion faux pas. So off we went in our matching outfits to learn to feed, mount and command these amazingly large, beautiful, peaceful animals--who by the way are big sweet eaters. No wonder they are so big. They live on bananas and sugar cane! Anyway, we all got the opportunity to hoist ourselves up on top of them, bareback that is, speak to them in Thai, and feed them bananas as they wielded their humongous trunks up to grab the bananas. So imagine climbing up the side of an elephant grabbing the top of its ear and hoisting yourself over its ten foot wide back (my hip still hasn't recovered!). Then while you are on top with nothing to hold onto, and believe me it is high up, bunches of bananas are being thrown up for you to catch as you scream Thai commands at the elephant and suddenly its fire hose trunk is at you like no other one-eyed snake I've ever seen! It was scary and exciting and exhilarating all at once. I opted out of the front mount that we got to try next, but Mike's perfect spread eagle mount landed him smack on the elephant's forehead--nice air Mike! It was great fun watching everyone. They all deserve a big round of applause. After, we rode the elephants down into the river where we got to give them a bath and scrub them up. The elephants were happy to take care of all of their usual bathroom needs during bath time--I don't think I need to go into all of the graphic details---but just know that we were barefoot and hip deep in the water with them! Our guides were gracious enough to start a water fight so that we could all enjoy cooling down in the bath water. I was trying to be a good sport until I was whopped with a big splash of water and some got in my mouth! Carin and Mike's elephant was a bit feisty and gave them quite the ride--very entertaining! The rest of the day consisted of a trail ride, a roll in the mud, and ended with us planting sugar cane for a future meal. I don't want to be a blog hog, and there is so much more to talk about, but suffice it to say, I found this experience to be one of the top ten of my life. Truly spectacular! For those of you who need more--not to worry--I purchased a whole hour and a half DVD of the whole experience.So that was a highlight for me, but the entire trip was simply AMAZING! Thank you to Carin and Mike again for providing the opportunity for this once in a lifetime experience. AN

- Before we began our travels we received some good advice from Mike which helped us throughout our trip. He told us to let go of all our expectations because things simply do not operate the same way in Asia as they do at home. All this became very clear when we arrived at the beach, via 6 different types of transportation, and the hotel did not have our reservation. Several hours later we found accommodations and the time we ending up spending at the beach with Mike, Carin, Hannah and Jess was amusing, adventurous, relaxing and beautiful. We spent our days kayaking, snorkeling, laying out and even a little cliff jumping amongst some of the most beautiful rock formations and the clearest water we have ever seen. We shared some amazing experiences both at Railay Beach, Chiang Mai and Bangkok (also with Ed, Ann and Nicole)that will last a lifetime. Thanks to Mike and Carin for allowing us to join them on their extraordinary journey!! Our eyes have been opened to the world and we think that we might have caught the traveling bug:)

Sue and Dani

- Railay beach offers a fantastic array of adventures from rock climbing to kayaking and everything in between. Having already been kayaking and lacking the upper body strength of rock climbers we decided to embark on a sunset snorkel. The plan was to leave at 2 in the afternoon, hit 3 snorkeling spots, have dinner at sunset on a secluded beach, take a night swim with the phosphorescent plankton and be back by 8:30. As many of us know life tends to get in the way of all of your plans and things ended up going just a bit differently. Here are the highlights:
· Our guide’s name was Joe. Joe liked to drink. A lot.
· A storm came along after our first snorkeling spot and as we rocked back and forth in our small boat on the angry sea, Sue pleaded with Joe to take her back…the answer was “No”.
· Due to issues Joe had on the previous nights excursion getting to the preferred island for dinner we had a location change and Joe took us to the rockiest island in the vicinity of Railay beach and had us hike ashore. This was only mildly irritating in daylight but turned dangerous when the sun went down.
· Dinner was supposed to be served at 5:30. At 6:30, when people were reaching the point of ravenous, Joe happily assured us not to worry because more beer was on the way… dinner was served at 7:30 and shockingly it was absolutely delicious.
· Mike fell on the rocks trying to get back to the boat. Many of you may not see this as a highlight, but if you are part of the Small family, you most definitely will and so it has to be noted.
· When Joe tried to prompt everyone to go swim with the plankton in a string of slurred words, 4-year-old Oliver (a fellow traveler) announced to the group in his loudest and most adorable Australian accent “Don’t listen to Joe, He’s crazy.” All of us thought it; none of us were brave enough to say it.
· Carin fell off the shaky ladder trying to get out of the boat, hanging on with one hand she flailed above the barely calf deep water until the hands on deck could get her back on balance. Hannah and Jess laughed about it the whole way back to the hotel.The snorkeling was very good and the experience was quite an adventure. Overall I think most of us would do it all again. Jess

So there you have it. As you can see Thailand really left a lasting impression on all of us. Traveling with 9 people is definitely exciting, frequently funny, sometimes a little challenging, but always filled with love especially when with your dear friends and favorite girls.

Little Jewel

One of the joys of traveling for 10 months is the ability to be spontaneous and alter ones plans at the last minute... and so we did. Laos is a quiet little jewel in the middle of southeast Asia. Although only there for a week the gentle nature of the people was quite refreshing, the landscape surprisingly mountainous and the food, influenced by the French, was "magnific".

Each morning in Luang Prabang, while it is still dark, you are awakened to the rhythmic beat of drums and peaceful chanting that comes from one of the many Wats that adorn the city. As the sun slowly rises, old and young line the streets with baskets of steaming sticky rice and pink & white flowers, awaiting the procession of orange robes. No words are exchanged as this daily ritual unfolds, barefoot monks collecting their alms before returning to the temple for study and prayer. What a lovely way to begin the day!

After a 7 hour, harrowing bus ride twisting and turning through villages dotted along the mountains edge we arrived in Vang Vieng. This town appears to be Laos' little Cancun, with out a beach, but plenty of partying just the same. Every backpacker under thirty comes here to tube and partake in drinking massive amounts of alcohol served up by the many bars situated on the rivers edge. Not meeting the above criteria we decided to spend our day kayaking and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Things seemed to be going along quite nicely until the second set of rapids, at least we like to think they were rapids, and a strong side current and Carin was under the kayak trying to lift it off her head and Mike wasn't far behind both floating down stream. As Carin always says, every time she's in a boat with Mike we end up in the water, no exception here.

One last bus trip to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. A few more Wats to see and we were off to Bangkok, 12 hours on the sleeper train to meet up with our girls. Can't wait!

Two days later we will have a small party of nine travelers including An, Ed, Nicole and Sue & Dani. Looking forward to spending time with them in this wonderful part of the world.

One heartfelt shoutout wishing all our family and friends a joyful holiday and peace in 2010.

Tam Biet Vietnam

"The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they really are."
Samuel Johnson


Ha Noi, Halong Bay, Sapa


There's an endearing phrase used by the Vietnamese people that we found to be most apropos, "Same same...but different". Although the north and the south like to think that they are very different we found...

Both love their Pho and each region thinks theirs is the best, we think they're both yummy. Same same......

Each area has their local specialties but they all use rice to make just about everything. Same same....

Up north in Halong Bay people live on the water just like they do in the south on the Mekong. Same same....

Sapa and Hoi An are both charming villages where women make clothes, one sews and the other embroideries. Same same....

Rice is grown all over Vietnam, on flat land in the south and mountain sides in the north. Same same....

It's hot in the south and cooler in the north but humid in both. Same same...


Both have their own beer with very creative names to match. "Saigon" is king of beer in the south and "Hanoi" rules in the north. Same same...

There are more motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh and more cars in Ha Noi but incessant honking and traffic in both. same, same but not different.

We had an excellent time exploring the north part of Vietnam. In Hanoi, the capital city, we spent the majority of our time wandering through the old quarter. We toured the "Hanoi Hilton" where John McCain spent most of his time as a POW. Carin managed to get hit by a motor bike, don't worry the bike was fine. We sat with the locals on the little red kiddie stools enjoying the street food and ended each day at Fanny's the local ice cream parlor. Never got to see Ho Chi Minh, rumor had it he was in Russia with Mao. Needing a break from the city noise we boarded a Chinese Junk for a relaxing few days cruising, kayaking and caving on Halong Bay. Spectacular! Sapa, our final destination is where we visited the minority hill tribes. We took a two day trek with a our local 20 year old Black Hmong guide up through the rice terraces that cover the mountain side, did a home stay with a local family where we played Uno and did many shots of home made rice wine with our host, yes Carin too, and can't remember the rest. Before heading back we spent the morning at the incredible Bac Ha market, unlike any market we have been to so far.... At this market you could purchase a live water buffalo, pig, chicken, fighting rooster, puppy (we think for a pet, not sure) and the usual or in this case unusual food stuff. This is where the young girls from the surrounding hill tribes, dressed in the most stunning attire come each Sunday to, as we say, Hook Up. They seem to be pretty successful as most of the women have babies strapped to their backs. We would have loved to shown you this and all of Sapa's amazing color, but due to a technical glitch our pictures are locked on the memory card. Help!


Shoutouts

- Erik The food is even more delicious than it looks. Save your money and you can come here and try it for yourself.
- Mom Keep the comments coming. Maybe Skyping is in our future.
- Ricky & Liz Now that your seasoned travelers it's time to try Asia. No worries Liz the food is basically gluten free.
- Mike D If your getting a little itchy to do some more traveling Asia is the place to go. We think it might be less expensive than Mexico with a lot more young travelers. All look like their having a blast sharing adventures.
- Marcia We're at a loss, you didn't have Laos in your travel notes.
- An, Ed, Nicole, Sue & Dani, our soon to be traveling companions. Leave your worries behind and let the adventure begin.
- J&H our arms are ready, can't wait to have them filled.

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM!

Our journey has taken us back to Asia and the wonderfuld world of Vietnam. Saigon is alive, crazy, hectic, and bursting with people, cars, motor scooters & bicycles. Ask any traveler and they will tell you that a hi-light in Ho Chi Min City is crossing the road. As Carin says, "if it wasn't for Mike, I would still be standing in front of our hotel on the same side of the street." It really can be a life threatening experience until you learn the ropes. There are a number of strategies you can try. Mikes favorite is to push Carin off the curb and see what happens. Just kidding. Carin's favorites are to walk up and down the street waiting for the traffic to clear (which it never does) or to find one of the 5 stop lights in the whole city and wait for the little green walking person. Only problem being no one obeys the signals and the sidewalks offer no refuge for pedestrians. Another good one is to look for the 85 year old Vietnamese woman carrying pots of soup hanging from a bamboo pole perched on her shoulder and follow closely behind as she crosses with ease. The real key is to gird up your loins, look straight ahead (in Carin's case grab onto Mike) and walk... until you reach the other side. We loved our time wondering through the city, checking out the sights, visiting the US embassy twice (long story), and especially the fabulous dinner with Ryan, our friend Ellen's son from Boulder and his fiancée Thi. They took us to their favorite place, Quan An Ngon. Thi, who grew up in HCMC, volunteered to do all the ordering and it was absolutely "delicious", which turns out to be the english translation of the restaurants name. The food was so good we braved our way back for lunch the next day. From the city we took a trip to the Cao Dai Great Temple and Cu Chi Tunnels, pronounced Gucci, which unfortunately Mike couldn't fit into, more about that later. The elaborate network of tunnels were used by the VC for sneak attacks on American forces.

Just a few hours south west of Saigon is the mighty Mekong Delta. This river begins in Tibet and flows into the China Sea, and is used for everything. We took a 3 day tour including bus, boat and bicycle to explore the area. What we saw was amazing, people literaly living on the water. There were floating markets, stilted houses on the river banks and fish farms right in the middle of the floating houses. The tour included a home stay with a local Vietnamese family, a visit to Chau Doc and a short trip across the river to a Muslim minority Cham community.

Continuing north along the coast we stopped for a little R & R at the beaches of Mui Ne and
Nha Trang. Although the beaches were wonderful we really loved skyping with the family on Thanksgiving and meeting Charlie from Buffalo, proud owner of the Texas Steak House & Barbecue who served us an authentic turkey day dinner with all the trimmings, yum yum, a nice change from rice & noodles.

Central Vietnam is home to the lovely, historic city of Hoi An, one of the few places untouched during the war. The old towns architecture is charming, the streets are motorbike free for part of the day and there are 267 tailors. The reason we mention tailors is because Carin decided to go with the flow and have a few pieces custom made. This is when the fun really began. Carin was trying to replace a pair of pants and add a pair of shorts to her collection. While looking through the five million bolts of fabric and trying to explain what she wanted, Carin noticed Mike who was supposed to be helping with the decision making, was fully engaged with one of the adorable young sales girls. She had him wearing a long sleeved Nehru shirt complete with chinese buttons and was asking if he would like a pair of matching pants. Out came the tape measure and and then the comments. You have to understand, the Vietnamese are very small boned, thin people. When measuring Mike's waist the girl looked up at him, patted his belly and said " Oh,very nice, happy buddha" . When Carin asked, whether she should have flaps sewn on the rear pockets, the girl started laughing and said "excuse me madam, but you have little bit of big bum so flaps not so good". It's okay Carin wasn't to insulted because the next thing we knew all the girls in the shop were talking and giggling about their little tushies and saying how they would love to have some. After multiple refits, mostly to let the clothes out, we hit the streets with our new duds. We took a cooking class (ha, ha) learned how to make fresh rice paper and then used it to make the best spring rolls, if we do say so ourselves. We also took a bike ride through neighboring villages on our way to the beach, took part in the full moon celebration and rode a motorbike along China Beach to Marble Mountain, where we saw beautiful Pagodas and Buddhist shrines inside natural caves. During the "American" war one of the larger caves was used by the VC as a field hospital.

By now you've probably figured out Vietnam is a very long country and we're only half way through. Our last stop before heading north was Hue, pronouned "Hway". It rained and rained and rained.

Time for a few shoutouts

-Gerri our dear sister-in-law, you know we love you babe. Thanks for making the drama queens trip to NYC so special.
-Mia, tell us what you're studying and we'll take some pictures of it.
-Ivi you never fail to crack us up, have you thought about writing for Letterman?
-N.I.C.E. very creative who ever you are. Can't wait to see what you write next!
-Sue F. you're quite the travel agent, we're glad to give you a little break from packing.
-Curry Lee maybe you and Sue can team up!
-Doug send some Chicken-E-Licken
- Jess and Hannah, eighteen days and counting. Good luck with finals !!
-Michele, we think some travel is in your future.
- Sue S. let us know if you will be lecturing any where close by Asia..S Africa..India..Egypt....
- Jan, glad you had a great trip to Guatemala, welcome home

-All, Thanks for the feedback on the video. We loved hearing from so many of you!!!

S.I.N.Z

"Beauty and grace are performed whether or not we sense them. The least we can do is try to be there." Annie Dillard

The South Island of New Zealand is breathtakingly beautiful. Jagged snow capped peaks, water ways carved out by glaciers and ancient forests grace the landscape. Like its sister island the hillsides are dotted with sheep. A variety of birds flood the sky. Seals & penguins can be spotted on rocky ledges basking in the sun, while bottlenose dolphins swim up for a closer look. Crystal clear glacier fed icy blue lakes are everywhere. There is a never ending surf that pounds the coastline. The south island is magical.


Tramping the Queen Charlotte and Abel Tasman tracks turned out to be quite the adventure. It always sounds easy during the planning stage from your comfortable living room. After renting backpacks, sleeping bags, cooking gear and packing a large amount of food for Mike including rotisserie chicken, we were off to our first of three huts, only to realize that these packs were really heavy. Four hours later and pretty darn tired, we made it to our first hut located on the beach, a wonderful spot n spite of the relentless sand flies. Between early morning tidal crossings, 35 kilometers of tramping, stopping to enjoy the views and a water taxi ride out we had an amazing, if not exhausting experience.


Queenstown, a beautiful mountain community situated on lake Wakatipu was the start of hours of decision making... should we bungy, 4 wheel drive, white water sledging or sky dive just to name a few of the activities. After consulting the local experts at the I-Site we settled on Funyacking/ jet boating on the Dart River, a day cruise on the Milford Sound, and an overnight cruise on the Doubtful Sound both are fiords. In the process we got to do a wee bit of kayaking, take an icy plunge in the Sound, and be surrounded by the most amazing scenery.


While there are not many people on the south island we managed to meet a few. In Nelson there was Rae & John, friends of Lisa in Brisbane, who made us a wonderful dinner and shared stories of their extensive travels all over the world. On the Abel Tasman we met a couple, about our same age from British Columbia, who sold it all and have been traveling on and off for the past eight years, very tempting. We had such a good time with Elsa and Yugo, our adorable, Portuguese bunkmates on the Doubtful cruise, we are now contemplating adding Lisbon to our itinerary. Finally the two 20 year old hitchhikers we picked up from the Netherlands who entertained us from Lake Tekapo to Geraldine with their stories of hitchhiking and tramping all over NZ. One of the absolute highlights of traveling is meeting amazing people from all over the world.


One last tidbit.. NZ. introduced Possums to controll the Stoats which were intoduced to control the mice and rat population, arriving with Capt. Cook, all to save the native birds like the Kiwi. Today NZ has 80 million Possums and a declining bird population. Not very effective pest control.

SHOUT OUTS;

Hobbs, The Embassy for notorizing was brilliant! We love you too.

Jessie, The package was the best!

Hannah, Five weeks and counting!

Our Friends and family, We miss you all.

N.I.N.Z.

New Zealand's North Island is simply lovely. It is quiet and spacious. The hills are green & lush and dotted with fluffy white sheep. Hawks soar in an endless bright blue sky. Huge pine trees and redwoods line up separating one paddock from another. Flowering yellow shrubs, red leaf trees and wild flowers follow along the aqua colored crystal clear lakes and rivers. Wineries and fruit orchards abound. The cities are small and the towns are charming. The North Island is beautiful!!

We began our adventure in Auckland with a killer breakfast, no surprise, and a walk about. Auckland is the most populated of all the cities in NZ (1 out of 3 live in Auckland). The main attraction is the Sky Tower (192 meters high). Why doesn't Denver have a Sky Tower? Next we headed off to visit Fran & Dennis, friends of Marcia's that she met while traveling in Egypt twenty years ago. Located fifty miles southeast of Auckland right on the water is their very quiet and beautiful B&B. We spent the night listening to stories about Marcia & Gerri and getting a bit of travel advice. Enjoyed another excellent breakfast and were off to the Waitomo Caves to see the glow worms. After spending an hour deciding how adventurous we were willing to be, we plunked our money down on the 3hr tube ride through the caves. OK, picture this, Carin in a full wet suit, helmet and caving light on, standing backwards, butt in tube, at the edge of a 4ft water fall preparing to leap into the freezing water below. The look on Carins' face was the best. Unfortunately we weren't allowed cameras. At one point we formed a six person chain, shut off our head lamps and floated in total darkness, guided only by the light from the glow worms, "sweet". The adventure ended with very hot showers followed by bagels & soup and chatting it up with fellow tubers. We were off again continuing our journey south stopping at Rotorua which is home to spurting geysers, hot sulfur springs and bubbling mud pools, all of which is located on an inactive volcano. It was a wee bit smelly! . We hiked in a magnificent redwood forest, checked out the green and blue lakes and spent an evening experiencing the Maori culture complete with singing, dancing and an authentic hungi dinner, meaning the food was cooked in a pit for three hours. It was all you could eat and Mike was in his glory. Our next stop was beautiful Lake Taupo, a hike to the Huka Falls and the beginning of the great decline, in health that is. By the end of the hike Mike was sick as a dog. Carin drove the entire 5 hours to Napier with Mike complaining, coughing and sneezing the whole way. As Mike will tell you it takes a mighty big cold to get him down. Carin got to visit Napier, in between trying to arrange "take-away soup" for Mike with our very enthusiastic B & B hosts. Needless to say Mike got no soup but Carin did take a great walking tour of the art deco buildings. It turned out Mikes cold was so big he shared it with his wife. His care taking skills did not measure up to Carin's as she was left alone in the hotel for five hours while he tramped around Wellington, our final North Island destination. You can imagine how well that went over, but our colds are getting better and we've have decided to continue traveling together.

One big shoutout to Chuck and Chris for keeping the EUI ship afloat and supporting this great adventure!!!

ROCK-N-REEF

Our journey has taken us where the rain forest meets the sea and the outback back meets the rain forest. We've gone through the hinterlands, tablelands and I-lands. After three weeks, two flights, a rental car, and a 1700km road trip we've only experienced a fraction of Australia. It's one bloody, big country.


ULURU, the Aboriginal name for Ayres Rock, along with Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) is quite the landmark in the middle of the outback. So what does one do at the biggest rock in the world? To start things off you get up really early, well not early enough, which makes the drive a little more exciting and race in your car to see the sunrise, where the light turns the rock a lovely shade of red. Then you walk the ten kilometers around, so you can admire it from every angle, and if that's not good enough provided you're not suffering from heat exhaustion , a little dehydration and craziness from the relentless flies swarming about your face, there's only one thing left to do, CLIMB IT! After finishing our trek around we sat down to relax, happy that we didn't have to decide whether to climb the rock since it was closed due to high winds. Climbing is a point of contention since it is a sacred place to the Anangu people and 34 visitors have died trying. Unfortunately for us the climb was re opened and we were faced with a decision, to climb or not to climb. After chatting with some Aussie mates we were convinced that climbing the rock was something we would remember for ever and "it would only take 20 minutes to get to the top ." How many times have you hear that? So the climb began with a steep ascent, totally relying on the soles of your shoes as there was nothing to grab onto. Carin was a bit nervous in the beginning but with warm encouraging words from her husband ( and a big shove ) upward she went. When the climbing became dangerously steep. there was a section of chain to grab onto. After about forty-five minutes we thought we'd made it to the top to find out that we were only a third of the way. With the water supply running low, blisters on our feet and the temperature rising we finally made it to the top. Ah, the thrill of victory. Except now we had to get down, and that was scarier than going up, at least for Carin. As we descended Mike took on the roll of Uluru cheerleader, encouraging both young and old climbers that they were doing great and to keep it up. By the end Carin thought he was going to get a job as an official guide. One last sunset, a load of laundry and off we flew to Cairns.

THE GREAT BARRIER REEF is Earth's biggest reef system, in fact it is the only living thing that can be seen from outer space. After renting a car , driving to Port Dougie ( as the locals like to call it) choosing a reef tour company from the 500 or so ( we of course chose the one that looked like it had the best lunch), fins and snorkel in hand we were ready to check it out, that is until the two hour boat ride. For those of you who may not know this, Mike gets a little sea sick on the open waters. As the captain cruised along at record breaking speed and the waves splashed up to the windows, Mike began to sweat like crazy and turned a lovely shade of greenish gray. The Canadian couple that we were sitting with asked " do you think he'll be alright? " as he crawled off to buy some motion sickness medicine. No worries, the boat stopped, Mike felt a hundred percent better and we found ourselves part of the most beautiful under water world .

A ROAD TRIP is just what you need to meet the locals and see the country. We traveled north to Danetree and up to Cape Tribulation where the rain forest meets the sea. Hiking, relaxing on the beach and enjoying the company of fellow travelers and great hosts at the B & B's. From there we drove a bit west and many hours south stopping in small towns along the way, enjoying national parks, looking for Kangaroos ( only road kill) and singing along to the great radio stations. Mike was really enjoying seeing how many trucks he could pass at one time on the narrow two lane road between Cairns & Brissie. The highlight for Carin was the " I told you so moment" after the police pulled him over for "dangerous overtaking." Luckily no ticket just a warning.

FRASER ISLAND the largest all sand island in the world (are we noticing a trend here?) .What a blast. The only way to get around is by 4 wheel, so we rented a Jimmy, watched a fifteen minute video on the do's and don'ts , received five minutes of instruction, signed a liability release and boarded the barge. There are no paved roads, the sand is soft and deep in spots, the tracks are rutted. The four wheelin was full on. Mike was in heaven. What makes this island so amazing is the clear fresh water lakes on the interior and ocean surround. Driving up and down the beach trying not to get caught in high tide made things a bit more exciting. We managed to only get stuck once. It turns out Carin is quite the 4 wheeler.

BRISSIE, our final destination. We were lucky enough to be the guests of the "cousins" Lisa & Alan their son Callum and Ruby their great big dog. Their daughter Maltilda was away at university in Tasmania. The minute we saw Ruby we thought of Sony which brings us to our connection -Dave & Lisa Compton. Aussie Lisa, who grew up in the USA , is Dave C's first cousin. They have been so wonderful, showing us around the city, taking us on a bike ride, up to the beach house and treating us like family. They really are quite amazing hosts considering when we arrived they were also hosting Christopher, a student from Germany. Brissie is a great city with wonderful parks, terrific public spaces, a world class arts complex all located along the Brisbane River. It was so nice to have a few home cooked meals and share thoughts and experiences with such lovely people that we can now call our friends.

A few shouties to our mates back home;

- Dennis & Diane, Carin is wondering if there are any tickets left for the concert in NY. She thinks it's worth the 22 hour flight. Keep the sports updates coming.
- Sue S, Your China pics were great. We will exchange travel stories. Good luck to Mark in his new school.
- Mom & Joe, Loved hearing your voices. What can you tell us about NZ?
- Ivi, You know we love you guys. You're always on our list. Thanks for checking in on the girls, and we hope to help you move into your new home in Boulder when we return in June. Ha ha.
- Dave & Lisa, The cousins are amazing, thanks.
- Cyndy, South Africa is known for having some pretty good golf courses. Check your May schedule.
- Jess, Love everything your doing.
- Hannah, Our little drama queen, thanks for keeping things exciting. (This one comes from dad.)
- Hannah, You are such a delightful daughter. Counting the days til December. (This one comes from mom.)
- Brit, Happy Birthday. Sorry Mike's cantina was closed due to extended travel. Should be reopened for the big 21.
- Lee, You are the best!! The eagle has landed and the trip will go on. Thanks for keeping us connected. Loved the extra goodies. See you in Cambodia.
- To all, enjoy the fall and stay in touch.